TV Mounting Hub Yorba Linda: Project example: a 75-inch TV on a tall family-room wall with the wires hidden — what it looks like and what it costs

The scenario

The room is a newer two-story family room: a wall of smooth drywall rising to the loft ceiling, a loft railing that looks down into the room, tall windows on the side wall and a deep sectional facing the wall from far away. A media cabinet sits across the room under the windows with a pre-run outlet.

The request is a 75-inch TV on the tall wall, the screen at a comfortable height, the picture readable in daylight and no cable visible. The wall is far taller than any seated viewer needs, so the position is set from the sofa and not from the wall.

What the job involves

1. The installer sits in the sectional, marks the seated eye line on painter's tape and sets the center of the screen close to it, which places the TV low on the tall wall.
2. The afternoon sun is noted through the tall windows and a sheet of black paper held at the planned spot shows any reflection.
3. Studs are located and proved, and a tilting mount with a wide plate is lag-bolted into two of them with a laser line as reference.
4. The TV, carried by two people, is hung and locked, and tilted a few degrees so the loft's angle and the glare both come out right.
5. An in-wall rated power kit and a CL3-rated HDMI cable are fished down the stud bay to a recessed plate near the cabinet, and a short run along the floor edge finishes the path.
6. Every input is tested from the sectional and from the loft, and the floor is cleaned.

Hardware and materials

• Tilting mount rated for 70–85 inch panels with a wide plate
• Laser level, stud finder and painter's tape for the mock-up
• In-wall rated power kit and CL3-rated HDMI cable with low-voltage plates
• Fish tape and pull string for the stud bay
• Moving blankets and a second person for the carry

Add-ons often paired with this job

• Mount a soundbar as well — +$55–$85. A bar under the screen is common; in a tall room a bar on the cabinet is often used instead.
• Full-motion (articulating) mount — +$30–$50. An arm lets the screen turn out of a stubborn reflection from the tall windows.
• I need the mount supplied — +$45–$135. A tilting mount sized to a 75-inch set can be supplied when none has been bought.

Why it is done this way

Tall walls tempt a high screen, but a TV is watched from a seat, so the seated eye line decides. Hanging low and adding a small tilt keeps the neck level and the picture clean, and the empty wall above becomes part of the room instead of a problem.

The in-wall kit keeps the wall clean over a long run, with rated parts instead of a plain cord. The 75-inch size falls in the 66–85 inch band and the concealment line is added on top.

What would change the price

• Fire blocking or a window header interrupts the stud bay, and a painted raceway covers that stretch.
• An 86-inch set moves the base range to the top tier.
• The glare check calls for a swing arm instead of a tilting mount.
• The pre-run outlet is not where the cabinet ended up, which lengthens the route.
• A new outlet behind the cabinet is electrician's work and is priced separately.